Sunday, January 30, 2011

Church in Iringa, Isimila and Guacamole


Sunday, January 30, 2011

Lat night Amy, Kelsey and I had a great time with the Fultzes and the Langnesses, talking smart and laughing a lot.  Following some wine or beer and popcorn, we had dinner where Gary and Carol lived a half-dozen years when in Iringa.  They sold it and now it is a small guesthouse and a big, great restaurant.  Oh it’s nice to be on vacation!

This morning, I went to the Lutheran Cathedral church in what to me is downtown Iringa.  But then, I consider Tumaini in the ‘burbs.  When I got back, Kelsey asked me, “How was church?”  “I don’t know.  It was in another language.”  Well, I did figure out when the offering was occurring, at least the first time.  I also did OK with communion, recognizable in many languages, I am quite sure.  Here is another problem with my Swahili.  Even when I have the correct words, they are virtually incomprehensible to the Tanzanian on the street, even when I say the words louder.  These people are so polite, they rarely smirk at me.

The church is very beautiful, not exactly in a St. Peter’s Cathedral in Rome way, but definitely compared with the several rural churches I have been.  Interestingly, though the Cathedral choirs were good, the rural churches have no equal!  They are enthusiastic, in tune and have their music memorized.  I certainly do not wish to take anything away from the big church.  Consider this an endorsement of the rural churches.

We went to Isimila this morning – church was 7 – 9 AM, so we went around 10.  It is just as astounding this time as the first two.  The massive spires are yellows, reds and rusty oranges.  There are stone-age tools, knives, scrapers, spear heads, chisels, hammer stones and round rocks for slinging that were fashioned 300,000 to 400,000 years ago.  The University of Chicago had a team out here in 1957 or so.  Ah yes, I remember it well.  It is definitely on the list of must-sees, unless you are over 80 years old or fossilized.  There are some parts of the trek that are a bit treacherous.  No untoward events befell us, however.

Coming back from Isimila through the Iringa suburb of Ipogoro, the escarpment is obvious.  This reminded me that I should say something about the road up the escarpment.  They were working on it in 2008 when we were here.  It is now complete.  It is a great new road.  The trucks, cars and pedestrians aren’t any different, however.  They are where Steve Martin got the idea for “wild and crazy guys,” I’m pretty sure.  We had a good cab driver, “Jay 4.”  There’s a reason for his name, but I cannot remember it.

We got the fixings for guacamole, so we are going to invite ourselves over to D&E’s for happy hour.  Hasty Tasty ran out of chapatis, so we are chipless.  We will improvise.

It is back to Ilula tomorrow and work.  It will be good after this little respite.
Ken

Saturday, January 29, 2011

Iringa


Jan 26, 2011

Amy, Kelsey and I left Ilula for a few days for Iringa before Amy is off to her Arusha adventure.  She will be meeting two friends for safari in Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti.  We will go to Neema Crafts to see how Beatrice does therapy and perhaps go to the regional hospital for a tour also.  I have some emails to catch up on and the blog you are reading.

The rest of the big group leaves Ilula for Dar tomorrow and then home.  They will attend the devotions in the morning, catch up on a couple patients and head out when Becky and Lamont Koerner arrive in the bus.

We said our good-byes tonight, with appreciations for all.  It was a pleasure and a treasure to have both David Page and Scott Lien with us representing Global Health Ministries (GHM), even for a short time.  Scott is Director of Operations.  David, who was CEO of Fairview Systems retired in 2007 and is now devoting time and energy to GHM board work.  Scott is doing a whirlwind tour of many of the hospitals GHM supplies.  They bring with them passion and an infinite depth of kindness and caring.  We heard from them after they arrived in Dar – going out to dinner at some swanky hotel.

Friday, January 28, 2011

Yesterday, the three of us went to Neema Crafts and were given a great tour.  When you visit Iringa, you must eat at Neema Café, buy stuff at the craft store and possible use the Internet services.  But more than that, seeing 100 Neema employees at work is the most important.  Each employee has a disability.  Some are significantly crippled, some are deaf.  All work.  I have seen others like the man who walks on hands and buttocks, dragging his lame legs from a seated position.  He is not without his flip-flops when moving.  He wears them on his hands.  In the craft area, actually a small factory, they make elephant dung paper (don’t worry, they boil the fibrous dung before it becomes paper), paper beads (long wedge-shaped papers wrapped and glued around a wire, then dyed and strung), beautiful woven fabrics on variously sized looms and, among other crafty projects, beautiful lamps.  I will have to try to get a lamp home somehow.

In the afternoon we hiked up to Gangalonga Rock.  There is a reason it is named.  It is a huge landmark.  We climbed it and stood over-looking all of Iringa.  Although I have been there before, two things stand out.  First, I am older and still made it just fine, although I think it qualifies as a maximal cardiac stress test.  Second, it is just as impressive the third time as the first and second.

We had a delightful dinner at Lulu’s with other wazungu: Roger and Trish Bloomquist, Don and Eunice Fultz and Carol and Gary Langness.  I am pretty sure I didn’t let anyone else get a word in edgewise, since it was such a relief to be understood. The food was satisfactory, but the orders seemed mixed up and unfamiliar compared with the US versions of same, like Mandarin Chicken.  Hmmm.  To top it off, they ran out of rice.  You read correctly, ran out of rice!  Don’t worry, we did not leave hungry.

This morning, I went with Gary and Carol Langness and Amy (she’s from Huruma) to pick up new sweaters for the kids at the orphanage.  Then we went to Huruma where I got to meet Mama Chilewa.

That was fun!  I took some video.

In the afternoon, we had a tour of Tumaini U.  Gary Langness gives a great history of the school.  I took a lot of video and basically got the story on video.  There may be a happy medium in how fast one pans from one scene to another.  I remember my dad’s efforts with the Super 8.   Zip – zip – zip!  I did some zipping myself and on the other hand some verrrrry slow panning.  Peter Harrits has nothing to fear from me!

Saturday, January 29, 2011

I tried to call home a million times this morning, about 5:30 AM here and 8:30 PM there last night.  Birdie said the call registered, but nothing happened, highly consistent with my own experience.  But I got charged for each and every failed connection.  I have no idea.

To give me a little positive reinforcement, I went to see Don and Eunice to see if I could get their Magic Jack (MJ) to work right.  We managed to get it straight eventually.  Couldn’t fix a couple computer things.  Oh, well.  It did hurt my ego, but my foot is sorer than my ego (from booting the thing).

Some things in Tanzania are EXACTLY the way they are at home.

Ken

Maasai kids

Friday, January 28, 2011

Lame elephant? Nope. Just showing off!

Tungamalenga and Ruaha


Saturday. 
It was a pretty long day.  We started by getting Dr. John off to the bus to Dar.  We heard later he arrived without a problem and I am guessing now, 9 PM and after a nice dinner at Sea Cliff, he is at the airport, awaiting the 12:30 AM departure.

We went into Iringa and had time to go to the internet café, then a nice lunch at Neema Crafts.  We had hoped to get drugs for the dispensary at Tungamalenga, but were unable to.  Also, our intent was to survey a few large pharmacies to find out what kind of resources they have and what education they provide their customer-patients.  That didn’t work out either.  Perhaps Kelsey and I will be able to do that in the next couple weeks.

It is easy to live here for a few weeks with the inconveniences our Tanzanian brethren live with every day, all the time.  Ilula has electricity and they will be getting another line in sometime in the near future (African time).  The water is cold for showers and the drinks are warm.  Much of the cooking is done over charcoal fires, so they live with smoke.  The food is just fine, though limited in variety: rice, cabbage, plenty of fruit, a few veggies and lots of potatoes.  The meet dishes are mostly chicken, some pork, although we have had mostly beef. 

Tonight we are at a “camp,” although we haven’t seen any campers.  It is a hotel with tent spaces.  Dinner was fine.  See the menu above!  They charge quite a bit for what you get (we think), what the wazungu market will bear I suppose.

We went for a walk through the small Tunga market and several of us tried pombe, a local fermented brew from corn and perhaps millet.  Tasty!  Well, it did have the faint odor of beer, call it more an odor than a “bouquet,” and gritty.  A beer a real man could get his teeth into.  There was a place that sold hors d’ourves to the, uh, drinkers.  They would come to the take-out, order a kilo of pork, which then was sliced off the leg or shank (I’m not familiar with the butchery terms).  The client pays, then the pork is chopped into bite-size pieces and barbequed on the spot.  When the customer is sated, it’s back to the club for more pombe.

It is Sunday now.  We had a leisurely morning, with a nice Spanish omelet, a sausage of some kind and fruit juice.  We put in some practice time on the song we knew we would be expected to sing, “We are Marching.”  To add even more humility to our endeavor, we sang a verse in Hehe, the local dialect:

Ndigendela lumli lwa mtwa,
Ndigendela lumli iwake

Worship was very nice.  We kept expecting to see the Augustana bunch arrive.  We thought we were racing them to Mwagusi Camp.  As it turned out, we met them coming away from the camp.  They had spent only one night here and were leaving.  They had spent some time in a park in the north, perhaps Serengeti.

So after a round about trip, we are now here.  We had a tasty and filling lunch: beef strips, chips, guacamole, tomatoes, tossed salad, cold fried eggplant with honey, soda pop, including “Coke Light.”  This camp is nearly heaven.  Spend a few days here as soon as you can!  Chris Fox is a wonderful host and the staff is top notch.

Momentarily, we are off to the afternoon game drive, so I will close now and gush about the animals when we get back.

Whoa!  I did not think we would be able to beat the previous drives I have been on, but I think we did.  I don’t intend to catalog the animals on the blog since it would take all day.  I will include a few special photos, so you will believe my stories when I get home.  We found ourselves with no one else on the drives.  In the Serengeti, sometimes queues line up for an hour to see two lions.  We saw five or six from twenty feet.  This is the place to be.  Explore the Mwagusi web site!


At dusk, we got back to camp for another delicious meal, this one on the dry river bed.  They do need rain here, so I wouldn’t mind if it did; like in the BWCA, rain is the dues you pay for the wondrous pleasure of God’s earth.

Wow!  Another couple of game drives!  I think I will try to impress my grandson with a couple.  We were 10 feet or so away from the lions, maybe 15 from elephants.  Giraffes are beautiful but not as plentiful as I remember.  Becky Koerner wanted a photo of a Dung Beetle.  We have them in action.  She will make several enlargements for her office day, including the Dung beetle as a pictorial representation as to what kind of day it might be.  Sometimes you’re the bug, sometimes you’re the windshield. 

David Page and Scott Lien have joined us.  We picked them up at Ruaha International Airstrip and they stayed with us on the game drive.  To our delight, we have another game drive in the morning, then back to Tunga to pick up Amy and Randy, then Iringa and Ilula.  They stayed back to be around Tunga.  Amy wasn’t feeling well and it was her birthday too.

She is recovered now.  She had a good time in Tunga, if disturbing in some ways.  She is keeping a blog too, so visit: http://safarinjema2011.blogspot.com/ , she’ll tell you more!

Thursday, January 27, 2011

Beth, Pr. Samson Mkemwa (head pastor) Pr. Makongwa (asst. pastor)

Makungu


             Today, Ken and I made the journey to the village of Makungu, about an hour and a half drive from Ilula.  The Makungu parish is the companion congregation to my home church of Abiding Savior Lutheran, in Mounds View, MN.  Our congregations have been linked for several years, but I was the first person to visit. 
            We left at about 9:00 am with Pastor Yusto from the Iringa Diocese and headed out on the dirt road toward Ilula.  The drive was beautiful as we wove our way into the mountains.  The road was narrow and steep, and covered with potholes and craters from the rain.
            We arrived safely in Makungu, and were welcomed by the pastors.  They welcomed us into the parsonage, where Rev. Samsom Mkemwa (the head pastor) lives.  His wife prepared us tea with snacks.  We had chapattis and a savory banana dish.  I drank a cup of tea that was brewed in warm goat’s milk.  While we ate, members of the congregation began to gather outside singing, dancing and playing instruments.  They sang songs in both Swahili and Hehe, and did the traditional Hehe dance that we’ve come to know well.
            The congregation escorted us into the church, where Ken and I were ushered to our seats at the altar.  Rev. Mkemwa expressed his thanks and appreciation on behalf of the congregation.  They had waited many years for a visitor from ASLC.  Although we had been planning this trip for two weeks, the congregation did not find out about our visit until yesterday.  They prepared a beautiful celebration for us on very short notice.  After Rev. Mkwemwa finished speaking, it was my turn to speak and do introductions.  I introduced myself in Kihehe then switched to Swahili for a sentence or two before turning to rely on Rev. Yusto to translate for me. 
            I sent warm greetings from Abiding Savior, and thanked the congregation for the very warm welcome.  I assured the congregation that the people of Makungu have always been in our prayers, despite our lack of communication over the last few years.  I told them how we looked forward to renewing our partnership and moving forward together.  There were no hard feelings, as people clapped and cheered.
            Next came the exchange of gifts.  Rev. Mkemwa presented us first with African clothing that had been made the night before for us.  I received a dress, Ken received a shirt, and Rev. Mkemwa also put on a shirt of the same fabric.  They then presented us with several more gifts:  woven baskets filled with passion fruit and eggs, pineapples, and home-grown coffee beans.  The fresh food is for us to bring back and share at Ilula, the rest is to bring home to remember Makungu.  I then presented the gifts sent from Abiding Savior:  a photo album, several prayer shawls, a quilt, calendars, and the many toothbrushes and toothpaste we had collected. 
            Pastor Lisa had written a letter to Makungu, which I read on her behalf, and also sang to them our weekly benediction “As you go on your way, may Christ go with you.  May Christ go before you to show you the way.  May Christ go behind you to encourage you.  Beside you to befriend you, above you to watch over, within you to give you peace.”           
            The choir then sang for us, and people started doing the Hehe dance in the aisles, which I joined in on.  Finally, after the dancing was done, we went back to Rev. Mkemwa’s house for lunch.  His wife had prepared rice, beans, chicken, and a tomato sauce.  After lunch, we took a few pictures with the congregation before heading back to Ilula.  

Beth

Even beautiful creatures have their awkward moments!

Aussie blog


When we, “the Aussies,” first planned this trip, we had no idea what we were in for. Never would we have expected the array of medical, cultural and social experiences we have had, which we shared we both the Minnesotians and Tanzanians.

The hospital here is very small yet services a huge population in neighbouring areas. We were shocked to see the lack of resources, yet impressed and inspired with the important work done by the staff at Ilula Lutheran Hospital with so little. Our infectious diseases knowledge has grown immensely. Coming from urban Sydney we had only seen one case of malaria between the three of us. It took some time to adjust to a place where ‘fever and diarrhoea’ signify malaria until proven otherwise and was treated empirically whether or not the blood smear was positive or negative. Similarly, the exposure we have had to HIV medicine has been a great supplement to our prior knowledge from Australia; here, we were frequently seeing the consequences of AIDS, including opportunistic infections and malignancies.

One of the busiest areas of the hospital is the maternity unit and we’ve loved attending natural births, ceasarean sections and checking up on the mothers and their infants. The staff at Ilula have all been so helpful and have really made the visit wonderful. The relationships we’ve formed with them and the local people in Ilula have really cemented the visit and made us feel a part of the community, not just visitors to it.

We’ve also very much enjoyed the cultural side of things at Ilula. Thinking we’d be able to get by on the (very) minimal Swahili we crammed before we left Australia, we were a little bit disappointed to hear that most people in Ilula actually speak the tribal language, He He. We were up for the challenge and with our secret weapon (He He guru Mwa Moody) on board, we were introducing ourself in He He in front of the Lutheran congregation at church in no time! There is so much to talk about in terms of culture here; from the food, language, customs of greeting and introducing people, gender differences, all the way through to watching the kids walk to school balancing hoes on their heads to practice skills for working in their shambas.

As a treat at the end of our trip we took the bus to Tungamalenga, a village just outside Ruaha National Park. One evening we took a tour of the village and were stopped by locals in order to try some of their “pombe” (bamboo juice). The next morning we sang in church (in He He) and then headed of for a two-day safari stay in the park. Needless to say the hot showers and beautiful accommodation were much appreciated, as were the safari drives for some light relief after the past three weeks.

Overall, there have been ups and downs in all areas of our trip but the most important thing is that we have achieved what we set out to do: experience medicine in a developing country in order to start us thinking about what our roles can be in the future to aid in such endeavours, to form lasting relationships with the people we work with and above all, gain an understanding of the culture and lives of the beautiful people of Tanzania.

Chantal, Sarah and Trish

Saturday, January 22, 2011

The Aussies - Chantal, Trish and Sarah

An exotic flower we named Audrey

Asifewe's two daughters

The baby

The Ilula Medical Friends

Is it Jan 19 already? Or 20? Or 21? 22 maybe?


Time is flying.  Gary Moody is going home in the morning, leaving for Iringa at 6 AM.  We spent time tonight debriefing the day after rounds in the morning, a visit to the dispensary and school at Image (ee-Mah’-gee, not Im’-ij).  The dispensary needs to be replaced.  There is land set aside by the community.  Now all the need is, you guessed it, money.  I wish there was more to say, but there is not.  Birdie and I visited the school in 2006 on our first trip to Tanzania with the St. James group.  The Headmaster was Ngogo.  I remember how impressed we all were with his vision and leadership.  But all that was there was a set of three buildings, a few foundations and a lot of strings outlining the future buildings.  They had students, but I do not remember how many.  Now there are many buildings completed and 840 students!  After the tour, the kids sang for us and danced for us.  I can confidently report that “a good time was had by all”!  When I get home, I may post a little video, but not now because the internet is too slow.

Randy has developed some discussion topics that have produced some lively conversations.  No conflict, just some thought provoking ideas, like how do we suggest change without offense.  We need to be especially careful of not practicing “knowledge paternalism,” i.e. thinking all our answers are right.  Some pretty high faluting ideas came forward.  Randy is thinking how culturally contextual the term “corruption” is.  Compare our individualism with African collectivism.  In the US we may see a manager taking a chicken home to his family as stealing or embezzlement.  Here the same action might be seen as sharing the wealth.  It is difficult to get one’s head around in one sentence.  Each culture defines itself in its social context.  I think a relativistic question we can pose to any culture is “How does this practice (insert social norm, more, behavior, custom, etc.) advance its society?”

Tomorrow we have a group of US visitors touring educational and health facilities touring the Ilula District Hospital.  They are from Augustana College!  What a treat it should be.  Well, at least one of our group is looking forward to it!
Ken

Jan 20, 2011

First, happy birthday from Africa, Mom (Esther W. Olson)! The temperature here is about your age, Mom and in Minnesota, I presume about the ages of your great grandchildren.

Dr. Moody left this morning.  We had goodbye appreciations for him last night.  We miss him already and have been calculating where he might be since he left.

Several of the students had opportunity to go to an outreach clinic this morning and one is a little sick.  Our Augie groups will be a little larger than we originally planned, but all will be well.

There is a newborn (NB) we have all been fretting about, especially Sara.  We feel helpless.  The NB came back at 4 days of age with lethargy and jaundice.  We cannot measure NB bilirubin.  Clinically, the jaundice spread down the body, even to the feet.  We also know the baby is quite anemic and we suspect a hemolytic (blood breakdown) process.  We cannot test for that either and if we could test for it, we would be unable to treat it (think exchange transfusion).  So we watched as the baby got sicker.  The baby got an IV, but without an IV pump we have had easy access to in the states, we would have had to drip it (counting drops per minute).  This was standard in adults when I graduated from residency.  But with infants, it is too easy to fluid overload.  We resorted to small, intermittent fluid boluses, until a nasogastric (NG) or orogastric tube could be placed.  (A very skinny plastic tube is placed in the stomach via nose or mouth).   We saw the baby get cooler and cooler, heart rate drop, go from poor suck to no suck and become ashen gray.  He is on antibiotics and we have nothing else to offer, except continuing the same regimen.  We expected the worst.  Gave up?  No.  We have been carefully checking morning and night, primarily Sara. 

Amazingly, this morning, the baby seems warmer, has a weak suck reflex and seems less jaundiced.  We never would have predicted that.  He has hiccups.  Could be natural, like every NB; could be related to NG position, or worst, could represent brain damage from kernicterus, as a result of the bilirubin being substantially over 20.  My grandson Sawyer got to 13, maybe a little higher.  When this happens at home, everyone scrambles and we have these marvelous lights to use.  Here we have a 60 watt incandescent bulb and we cannot really have the baby undressed for prolonged periods due to worry about hypothermia, so effectively there is no therapy.  So, as miraculous as the improvement is, assuming it continues, there is still a high likelihood the baby has permanent brain damage.  If he does not die, we will likely never know the outcome.  I think this baby will haunt us.  I will upload a photo of this sweet boy and his mom.

My gadgets have been useful.  The photo of the baby (and many other people), I have been able to give to the human subjects, thanks to the little photo printer I brought.  The people have been very grateful for them.  We have taken many photos, but except possibly for a brief electronic peek, they never get to see themselves.

We have used my palm-sized projector a couple times.  It works great (at night)!  What did you expect?  It is the size of a deck of cards!  Hooks up to the computer well. 
           
Now I have a phone that works in Tanzania.  My iPhone works fine – for its non-phone functions.  No, I am not playing the games on it. Well, not much anyway!

The students were here.  It was great!  There were many from Augustana, several from St. Thomas and a lone Gustie.  They seemed pleased to be here and Chery Feinstein, Julie Ashworth, Augustana professors, and Kari, the liaison from the trip planning group seemed thrilled to have been here.  I have a mild bias I suppose, but our students were professional in every way.  They made a fine presentation to students who were extremely interested.  See Randy’s story below.  I definitely want to connect with someone in the nursing department.
Ken

DEVELOPING A “CULTURE OF LEARNING” AT ILULA

We officially opened the Peter J King Family Foundation Medical Education (and future nurses training center) last evening with the opening honorary guest lecture, “HeHe Proverbs,” given by Dr Gary Moody.   Gary has a list of HeHe proverbs: he and our students have had fun this past week trying to think of American synonyms for some of these proverbs then finding photos to match and placing them in a power point presentation. Example “Roar within your stomach like the cow does” might mean “keep your problems to yourself; “The lead cow drinks the cleanest water” likely means “the early bird catches the worm.”  We then had our students give us a power point presentation about the cases they had seen this past week: malaria in pregnancy, malnutrition and malaria, an ultrasound diagnosis of a ruptured ectopic pregnancy, a case of large bowel volvulus that was operated on etc.  Several of the students have delivered babies with the help of Tanzanian nurse midwives; one of the mothers named her baby “Sara”, after our student, Sara Tonsager who participated in her care. Sara and Sara are now “soul sisters.”

We have made a point of telling the staff at morning report this morning that the new Education Center is theirs.   It is for all of the health professionals at Ilula, from the medical attendant students, to the nurses and midwives to the doctors and clinical officers.  It is also for the people of Ilula:  for the secondary school teachers to gather and learn health information that they can share with their students, for education of community health workers, and for pastors to gather to learn health information to pass on to their congregation.  We talked about developing a “culture of learning”, how when students challenge and ask questions, that it actually improves the care of patients. After that talk, we all observed a noticeable change in how ward rounds were conducted: a great start!

We hosted a group of 29 college students from Augustana, St Thomas and Gustavus this morning. They are on a 1 month J term trip learning about health and culture in the area and stopped by the hospital.  We broke them all into small groups and had our students give them all a tour. Afterward, our students presented their lecture on cases they had seen here at Ilula.

We have an educational theme of nightly discussions going on here at Ilula that hopefully have engaged the students.  The focus culminates in trying to understand the meaning of partnership and discussing principals of how to partner well with our Tanzanian brothers and sisters. “How to help without hurting.” Pre-course work included reading a book, “The Fever” (Sonia Shah) about how a disease, malaria, affects a culture.  They also read, “Africans and Americans, embracing cultural differences” (Joseph Mbele) to give them a better understanding of cultural awareness.  We move on tonight to talking about definitions and causes of poverty and complete our discussions tomorrow with “how to partner well.”
 Randy

January 21, 2011

Today is my last day here, and my first post.  Ken would not let me procrastinate any more.  The day started with some great presentations by our medical students to the entire hospital staff.  The presentations covered DKA, diabetic neuropathy, and hypertension.  The hospital staff appeared to be very interested in the content of these lectures as well as the process of didactic education, American style.  Next we went to a small house in Ilula to visit a patient who had had a stroke.  She had been a nurse, but now is unable to work due to being hemiparetic on the left side from the stroke.  She continued to receive PT (Amy) and OT (Stacey) treatments in her home.  Next I went to visit the CTC (Counseling and Treatment Clinic) where HIV patients are monitored and treated on a monthly basis.  They have a great system of record keeping and monitoring the patients to deliver antiretroviral medications according to protocols.  Finally, I spent some time with Nixon Mdegella in the outpatient department.  He is a clinical officer who has been at Ilula for 10 years.  This was pretty much one of the highlights of my trip since, as an emergency physician, this acute care was right up my alley.  We saw lots of malaria in addition to trauma (fractures, head injury), infections (hand infection, foot infection from thorn into foot), and assorted sick kids, abdominal pain, and chest pain.

I had to say my farewell to the staff at morning report today.  It was a bittersweet moment for me.  I told the staff that I wanted to thank them for all the help, learning and hospitality they had extended.  I also told them that, having seen how well they took care of us, how well they take care of each other, and how well they take care of their patients, I will be a better doctor and a better person when I return home.  The graciousness of the Tanzania people will stay with me for a long time I hope.
John

I spent a little while in the Out-Patient Department (OPD) with Dr. Saga today.  I assume I will do this often in the next couple weeks.  We saw some memorable cases too: one man brought his chest x-ray which showed a pneumonia (pneumocystis) commonly found in HIV positive people, fortunately easily treated with a common oral antibiotic; a woman came with a whole body rash – Stevens-Johnsons Syndrome.  She was checked for HIV (PITC is “provider-initiated testing and counseling”).  There is still a stigma being HIV positive.  The government supplies drugs for free.  The stigma may be changing.  One young woman came to the outreach clinic and wanted to be tested.  She had been coerced into not telling or being tested by the male who could have infected her.  She was of course worried, but when she was tested and despite her fears was positive, she was relieved because now she could be treated.

We went for a walk to the river, currently a trickle, despite the rain we had a few days ago.  Today was beautiful with a few scattered clouds and bright sunshine.  We walked the travelled paths along the plowed fields an I keep wondering about the ag project and whether they are using any of the practices taught at Tumaini.  The soil does not appear to have much humus.  I will have to ask.

After the walk, the hospital administrator came to get me to take the photos I had promised to do at the church.  Pastor Dani, Alum and I strolled around the church and took some nice photos.  There was beautiful singing inside and perhaps a Friday afternoon service.  They even allowed me to take a few shots inside.

The Ilula church is partnered with Chisago Lakes.  So far no one from there has visited Ilula.  I think I have picked up on one possibility, which may or may not relate to the Tanzanian concept of Chisago Lakes.  Chisago sounds like Chicago.  “Are you close to the Great Lakes?” Alum asked.  About 150 miles, I said.  Now I am wondering if he may have seen Chicago on the map, next to Lake Michigan.  I hope I have the opportunity to show some photos to Chisago Lakes.

This evening we went to Dr. Saga’s home where Dora prepared the best meal we have had.  (And our food has been great.)  She did tease us a little telling us she had forgotten to make ugali.  It was a wonderful night of visiting and eating.  As you might guess if you have met the Saga at all, they are truly gracious hosts.

In the morning, we are on the way to Iringa, then on to Tungamalenga and most of us to Ruaha.  More after that adventure!

We got word that one of the tour students got a cut with a razor blade, not his own while at a night club.  Though his risk is extremely low, he will still be on HIV prophylaxis for a month.  I did not like it when I had to take it after a splash in the eye with a patient's blood some years go.  It was nerve-wracking, even for the few days.

Ken



Tuesday, January 18, 2011

January 17 an 18, for sure


 Hurry up and wait.

We have meeting about the Nursing School today at 10 AM.  It is 11 AM now.  (The meeting finally started at 1 PM, but only because one of the Diocese board members died and details needed attention.)  This is an important planning meeting, including many important people, not only the Wazungu, but diocene, regional medical officers and Ilula people.  Getting all together is challenging.  Visions for the school will be discussed.  My understanding is that in addition to nursing training, other CME, e.g. dispensary personnel, doctors and medical officers, will be planned using the Peter King Medical and Nurses Training Center.  Later in the evening, we went to the IPO orphanage and school.  I cannot remember what that means, however I do know Randy knows Barrett Skare, the Norwegian woman who started and shepherds this amazing place.  They are building a high school that will be outstanding.  The building has up to date hardware and utilities.  I am not sure when it will open.  The IPO has the most beautiful garden, maintained by a gregarious comedian named Elesha.

We all ran out of gas in the evening, but through a complicated spreadsheet managed to calculate the in-country transportation bill and collected the funds.  I may make it easier if I ever do it again for a big group, as in “Gimme $200 bucks apiece up front and I might give some back.”  It was just tough to plan for.  We have had the luxury of transport at our beck and call, though we have paid for it.

Jan 18

Today, some did rounds, some other things.  Stacey, OT, met a young woman nurse stricken by a stroke only two months after starting as a nurse at the hospital.  Initially, she could not walk.  Now she can walk but still has left hemiparesis and is developing a little contracture in the left hand.  Staci did a stellar job making a neutral position bivalve hand and forearm splint for her (under my tutelage, ahem!).  She has the theory, I have the experience.  But she did all the work, if I might have gotten a little plaster on my hands too.  Our steadfast Bella is a marvelous interpreter and a game assistant as well.  Our semi-pro photographer Beth caught it all on, uh, electrons and Stacey will produce the Power Point.  Be sure to see it at the local OT training institution near you!

We are on our way to Iringa so a couple of us can get our work permits (first time ever needed by volunteers at Ilula).  The immigration officials did not respond to any explanation or reasoning.  This is a new way to spend a $100.  So the second wave of us decided not to tempt fate (and potentially stir up a firestorm for Dr. Saga and are on our way to voluntarily pay up.  I wonder if a Tanzanian jail would be like the tales of Mexican jails?  Guess I will try to continue wondering.  It took the first group over 4 hours.  It’s a PITA!  But it took us about 1/3 as long.  Smaller PITA.

Randy
We have met a number of amazing young people here: ones that want to “grow up to be doctors and lawyers and such”…teachers, business people, those that can help this community progress and prosper.  After working in the pediatric ward at Ilula, it strikes me that these children have such a gauntlet that they need to surpass in order to achieve these dreams.

First, you have to hope that you’ve been given a mother that is sufficiently well nourished to carry you to term, allow for good cognitive development and without complications such as malaria…and that she has access to a hospital that can safely deal with any complications that could occur at delivery.  You need to hope you get a mother that does not have HIV and a family that can provide enough nutrition for appropriate brain development.  You need a family that can afford to send you to school and hope that the school has competent motivated teachers that can help you excel.  You need to make sure someone puts you under a bed-net when you are under 5 years old to prevent malaria and hope that you have access to clean water and sanitation.  If, and only if, all these things go right, you might have a chance to compete in this country, a chance to be part of the change that this country is hoping and waiting for. 

Ken again
We met the Augustana College education group.  Randy bumped into them and directed them to me while I was looking at my email.  They will be touring the Ilula District Hospital Thursday or Friday.  I suppose I will wear my blue Augie shirt both days.  Don't tell.

I got to talk to my lover for a half hour.  Boy!  I like Magic Jack.  Broke up a little, her voice, that is the electrons did.  She sounded fine!

Don't know when the next installment will be uploaded. I will try to get the others on paper too, like Randy did.  Count your blessings!

Sunday, January 16, 2011

Jan 13, 14, 15, 16, I think


Amsterdam

Here we are at Amsterdam, Schiphol Airport.  I have no idea how that is pronounced.  I think the pilot pronounced it “Sky’-pul.“ You would think he would know.  I also heard “Ski’-pole,” likely a displaced winter enthusiast.  It was raining on our arrival, 45 degrees F.  I didn’t see any snow, but then again, it was dark.  Lastly, I heard someone pronounce it “Skip’-ul.”  There is no schwa on my keyboard, which should replace the “u” in “ul.”  It doesn’t seem likely I will walk up to a Dutch person and ask.  We will see.  But I did! Ski-pole.

The flight was uneventful.  However, Randy’s article on medical issues on commercial flights reports a study with incidence of 46/1245 (3.6%) developed DVT, all high risk and compared to a cohort wearing compression hose.  That extrapolates to 10 of the 300 people on the flight, if we were all high risk.  Wow!  None of us though!

Amy capsulized how we all felt on the flight.  “I was too tired to read or even watch a movie.”  As I write this, I am too tired to make corrections, almost too tired to be clever.

I am looking forward to connecting with the Augustana College people.  They will visit Ilula one day.  On the flight I overheard a young woman say she was from SD and Augustana.  I wanted to ask her more, but it was fleeting.  She got off at Kili.  I am guessing it is natural to want to connect with the familiar experience.  Contrast that with my reticence to ask how to pronounce Schiphol.

Kili Airport, Dar and FPCT, Ilula

We made it!  No mishaps.  It was late to Free Pentacostal Church of Tanzania, 1 AM or so with arising at the B-C of dawn (very early).  We left by 7 AM and arrived in Ilula just before 5 PM.   For me, after three times, that drive has become a little familiar.  Seems to me there is a fair amount of new construction that looks like modern industrial and commercial building on the outskirts of Dar.  The vegetation is lush after the rains have begun.  Driving across the gorge is harrowing.  Kulwa did a wonderful job of driving.  I did a wonderful job of dozing.  So I am not sure if anyone was white-knuckling.  Amy reports all the rest of us were sleeping, but she was not white-knuckling.  We have now had a beer, dinner, and heard some stories.

The others have had an eventful 9 days: breech twins, one not salvageable, mom and the healthy babe left 8 hours after delivery; Mom was happy, having lost two previous babies; large bowel obstruction, repaired; wound dehiscence and repair; several normal deliveries: lots of malaria, including in a pregnant woman (with malaria it’s “shoot first and ask questions later”), primarily because of its prevalence.  None of the above are criticisms.  They do the best they can under the circumstances.  The med students have been doing a great job.  Quickly they realized they needed to limit the number of cases they would follow or be overwhelmed.

Besides all of us, we have three Australian med students too, Chantal, Sarah and Trish.  Two ESL teachers are with us from Morogoro.  (Becky Peterson and Alice Kellgren, both of World Teachs into their one-year commitment, seven month.)  Yet all have been and will be busy.  Some went to the HIV outreach clinic, the maternal and child outreach clinic and Bella and Latifah taught a class of form six men students on HIV prevention.  (Form six students are often 19-20 years old and would be about US 11th grade equivalent).  They were asked to come back and give it to some of the girls at the school.  Of course there is more, but I am tired.  Plans are formulated for tomorrow.  We will attend church Sunday and… wait for it… we will be expected to sing.  The women have worked up “We are Marching” in three languages: Hehe, Swahili and Marekani.  It’s gonna be over by the time you read this, but surely if there is an earthquake Sunday morning, you will know why.

Jan 16

Church is over, but not before lightening rounds at the hospital.  And rounds were interrupted by a blessed event: twin boys, almost 14 pounds together almost equally split.  They were delivered by C-section, because one was breech (and both large).  The health of these two babies is contrasted by the 1.9 kg (about 4 pounds 3 ounces) 15 day-old infant with jaundice and rigidity.  We saw four men all acutely ill overlying their chronic wasting illnesses.  A father looked on as his delirious son in the bed was unable to speak.   All of the men had malnutrition.  One had malaria but was not yet responding to quinine.  Because of the C-section, I missed them on rounds this morning.  But then, I missed the c-section too.  Some supplies are precious.  The adage is “hold on tight.”  I could hardly refuse when the surgeon asked for my OR cap and I trudged back to the house for another one.  By the time I returned, the twins were out, ably managed by the nurses as Kelsey and Amy looked on.  Sarah (Aussie), is going into OB, so it was her opportunity to shine assisting Dr. Saga and Dr. Moody and helping Dr. Moody close as Dr. Saga got back to more lightening.  Sarah got to meet proud papa too.

Church is always such a treat.  The choirs are astounding.  They use beautiful harmonies and rhythms in their songs. It’s another area where we can learn from our friends in TZ.  We were all given opportunity to introduce ourselves of course, but not in either of my fluent languages (“American” and pig-Latin), but naturally in Kiswahili.  Pastor Lamont Koerner delivered the message, a good one, mostly in English.  He also gave the benediction and his wife Becky and I both thought it was the end, but it was not to be for another twenty minutes.  The choirs marched out singing rousing hymns and sang for the congregation as we trooped out too.

Now we are on our way to Iringa for the afternoon.  All want to get to the internet café for email, of course and me so I can post this, but more importantly so I can talk to my wife!  Al I have done so far is a brief message to say I arrived all right.

Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Tomorrow

It is finally here.  Seven more of us will be off to Iringa and Ilula.  We will have several more suitcases full of gear to bring with us thanks to Global Health Missions.  Also, thanks to Park Nicollet Eagan and Susan Erickson who graciously allowed me to pilfer a few sterile gloves, masks and a million gauze pads.

It appears I will be able to get all my gear into the gigantic roller duffel we used last time.  I could actually ship myself in it, but I would be over the 50# weight limit.  Birdie has a care conference for Dad Degner tomorrow, but I need to be at MSP early enough that it won't interfere.  At first I thought I might have to "tuck and roll," but she has enough time flexibility to actually stop to let me off.

Stuff to do, dinner to eat, etc.  More from MSP and more from Amsterdam.

Ken

Monday, January 10, 2011

Packed, more or less

Still "abunchastuff" to do, but last night Amy, Kelsey, Randy and I got our heads and hands around packing.  Every one is under the 50# limit, although since I have not put my personal gear together, I am mildly concerned.  I could really ramp up my worry by waiting until Wednesday AM to finish.  Naaaaaah.  John will get two suitcases from Global Health Ministries and Lamont will haul one of those.  Two other friends will be in Tanzania while we are: Dave Fuerst, St. James member, who works for Lutheran World Relief and Scott lien from Global Health Missions.  A group from Augustana College, Sioux Falls will be there too!

Thanks to St. James for several (many) things.  We are bringing nearly 400 toothbrushes, most from St. James.  I have read a few of the letters.  I know the students and people at Idunda will love them!  I will pull some of them for the congregation at Idunda, distributing the rest to the students, likely each of whom will get four letters!

Bob Nastrom:  The crosses are wonderful!  Pastors:  Thanks for the clergy shirts (Friar Tuck brand!  You will each have to put on some weight before we can start calling you Friar Tuck....)  Miriam and Holly, terrific work on the books for Idunda.  Thanks to my sister-in-law, Jill Christopherson for funding the project.

I learned my Grand-daughter Parker, 11 months, still spells reading "reding" and nuggets "buggets."  Actually, she pronounces nuggets "buggets" too, so that isn't so surprising.

Ken

Saturday, January 8, 2011

Packing


Departure is getting close!

Some of the group will meet at my home to pack the extras Sunday evening.  This probably won't take more than an hour. We will have stuff to distribute. I don't expect we will exceed the two-bags-fifty-pounds-each-plus-carry-on limit, but we will have stuff!  I will have a bunch of electronics in my carry on, including an extra laptop Wayne Hayes from Roseville Lutheran is sending with us.

Dr. Gary Moody and half the group are already in Ilula.  Gary has requested us to bring some additional things, like scrub suits.  Scott Lien from Global Health Ministries has graciously offered to pack them and other supplies for Dr. John Kvasnicka to pick up and so, he will be bringing his carry-on and two bags with 50# of scrubs and supplies from GHM. We will redistribute as necessary before check-in at MSP.  Check-in is always an adventure, making sure we are not over the 50# limit.  The first time we went, I think the big bags of M&M Peanuts for Dennis Ngede were pulled from the checked bag and stuffed in Sandy Thibault's carry-on.  Only later did we learn we could have aggregated our group's baggage and avoided the anxiety.

I have a few books, some Hospice kits, some old style “Midwife kits,” now renamed and redesigned as Newborn kits.  I don’t know if we will be able to re-package them as the new form or not.  I may seek some volunteers spontaneously at St. James tomorrow or at the cluster* meeting later in the afternoon.

I have a box of 500 tongue depressors.  (So we won’t have to use the same one over and over like I do in the office.  JUST KIDDING!  I hardly ever do that!)  I have the toothpaste. 

Sounds like I will have a million toothbrushes from St. James too.  One large basket is overflowing now and I expect members to bring more tomorrow!  

We decided to have the confirmation classes write some letters to the 25 students we sponsor at St. James who attend mostly Lutangilo and Pommern Secondary Schools.  Pastor Will took charge of this and it has me nearly in tears to say we already have 85 letters and 25 crayon pictures (from kids too young to write)!  Wow!  

Phil Larsen is going to be at our Adult Ed and Coffee Hour at St. James tomorrow (about 9:45 AM) talking about the Ag Project.  We may pirate just a little time from him to have others write more letters.

Peace!

Ken

*Cluster is a subgroup of churches administratively grouped.  The full cadre of 70 SPAS churches that have Tanzanian companions is divided into five clusters.  Ours meets tomorrow afternoon.


Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Whirling Dervish.... A mystical dancer who stands between the material and cosmic worlds. His dance is part of a sacred ceremony ...

Things are now going dervishly fast and I am whirling!  Perhaps I am in the cosmic.  Everything is slightly blurred (blood sugar's OK).

I am picking up some medical kits this morning from Don and Eunice Fultz, also whirling, leaving today with a group from Luther Memorial, I think.

Still seeing to details for our collective needs in TZ, like transportation.  It will all come together (I pray).

Peace!

Ken

Monday, January 3, 2011

Departures and arrivals and waiting....

Sunday, January 2, about half the group left for Tanzania, the rest of us with a few more days to gather things to bring for ourselves and our colleagues.  They should be in Irninga now.  The rest of us are waiting and will be leaving MSP January 12.  I am getting excited for departure, still mentally organizing what I need and how much space will be left for gifts and supplies for our friends in TZ.
Next Sunday, January 9, at St. James ELC in Burnsville, we will have an adult ed forum (coffee at 9:30 AM, forum at 10:00-10:45) on the Ag Project, with an opportunity for folks to write letters to our students and the congregation at Idunda, St. James' TZ Partner Congregation.  It will be fun!  If you care to bring a new toothbrush or two for our public health students' project, feel free!